40
Sunset session at the the home break tonight. I still can’t judge this break very well, as I rode the long board but shoulda had the pig. Some day I’ll get comfortable at my home break, I swear. It was a really gorgeous night on the water. Clear, with hardly any wind to speak of… Fullish moon rising over the beach and hardly anyone out.
I only had a couple good rides. One was pretty memorable as the wave was sucking up hard enough to keep me in the top half of the face as the face seemed to double in size and threaten to throw me on the sand. It did finally let go and I dropped down just in time for the big close out.
It was a beautiful night and a session that I really needed… very happy I chose to paddle out.
2 @ 15 from 310
No wind
Low incoming tide
1 hour in the water
