38
Surfed the home break this morning. Or I should say I asked the home break to kick my butt, and it happened.
I looked, deliberated, got some coffee, drove south, drove north, and decided I at least had to paddle out. Denied at first, then found a keyhole. Couldn’t find anything familiar or friendly, got caught inside on a set, blasted in the pit, and held down for a while. Happily put my tail between my legs and belly road some big nasty white water to the beach.
6.5 @ 11 from 310
Slight offshore wind
High outgoing tide
45 minutes in the water
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