5
Surfed at my place on sunday morning… totally denied. I had the long board, it looked really small. Well, I’m a total friggin’ kook and I definitely don’t know how to surf.
At first, I was denied just trying to get through the shore pound. I walked back out, went down the beach about 50 yards and made it out without to much trouble. The little peak that I was watching from the parking lot was about head to shoulder and pretty steep. I tried and kooked for about an hour… put my tail between my legs and paddled in.
It was a beautiful day, nobody else on it, slight offshore winds…, I couldn’t have had better conditions… well…, next time.
4.5′ @ 7 seconds from 322.
low incoming tide.
1 hour in the water.
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