Illicit affair…
Surfed with Chopper at his home break yesterday. The day was absolutely gorgeous and the waves were just small enough for my sissy ass…. I haven’t been surfing much lately and when I have, they’ve been pretty mellow sessions. So…, Chopper’s spot’s a bit intimidating for me these days and it seems that I wasn’t catching a lot of waves that I should’ve.
Anyway, it was a really good, quick session. Only one real ride, a bit frustrated and intimidating. But really glad to be in the water and back at chopper’s.
5.0′ @ 9 seconds from 315.
low incoming tide.
45 minutes in the water.
So, why’d you have to lie about it? Hmmmmmmmm.
Anonymous said this on Thursday, May 1, 2008 at 9:07 pm |