“Off” day
Sam and I drove north on friday… I knew that a small south was filling in and thought the wind was going to hold off until saturday. It was a beautiful day, but I was wrong about timing of the wind and a cold, cold wind from the north arrived a day early. The swell was small, but consistent. There were southern lines flowing in and looking pretty from the cliff. The point looked good with only a stand-up paddler out, and there was also a small group of peeps directly out from the ramp. Sam decided to hang in the truck and read in the warmth of the sun while I braved the wind and kooks.
The sand bar directly in front of the beach seemed to be working, so I started there. Things were pretty minimal and believe it or not, closing out. I don’t remember the entire beach closing at one time like this in quite a long while. I made the drop and turn for about 45 minutes, then decided to head out to the point. I walked over and paddled out in what seemed a lot larger rollers than what was to be had on the sand bar. I was getting pretty stoked as one of the two old guys out caught a fantastically long technical ride just as I was paddling out. The wind was really starting to howl… In the end, I seemed to paddle out during the set of the day and only caught two waves to speak of. I worked my way back to the beach and rode a couple in. It turned out to be a wonderfully unexpected day in the water and started the weekend perfectly.
3.0′ @ 15 seconds from 245.
medium/high outgoing tide.
2 1/2 hours in the water.
