The way it used to be…
Surfed at my favorite spot on friday. It was the maiden voyage for the new-to-me truck and turned out to be a fun session. Surfed strait out from the groin sign on a bar that I’ve never seen before. Oh… and I saw a fin in the water about 50 yards outside. It only surfaced for about 5 really long seconds and I don’t know for sure that it wasn’t a sealion… but… I was feeling it.
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