Driving is good…
Today was spectacular. I took a drive south… and longboarded at P Pt. The weather was absolutely gorgeous. I drove the coast and stopped at a lot of the spots along the way. Almost every one looked good, but I had it in my head that I was making it to SC. As I arrived, the day was feeling quite in tune and I wasn’t in any big hurry to surf. I just hung out on the cliff for a half hour of so and soaked in the scene.
It was bottoming out on a minus tide, so I got in just as the water started to come back up. I traded waves with 2 or 3 other peeps for the first hour, then jockeyed with a few more as the tide came in. There was no wind, lots of sun, really clean waist to chest high waves and an unusually friendly vibe in the water… a fantastic day.
4′ @ 11 seconds from 315.
very low incoming tide.
2 hours in the water.
