I can’t believe this has happened… No wonder I’ve been feeling out of balance.
Well this morning helped to right the ship. I had a fun hour in the water at a spot that I haven’t surfed in a few years. There were only a few folks out when I paddled out and there were plenty of little mackers and smiles to go around.
3.5 @ 11ft from 315
1.6 bottoming tide
Betsy climbed her first 5.10 at the gym last night! It shouldn’t be long until she’s leading me up some rocks. Im easing my way back in… Avoiding injury for at least the first couple weeks.
5,8; 5.9; 5,10a; 10a; 10a; 10a
Climbed for the first time in about six months today… Felt like I was starting from scratch and had a great time with Betsy (who’s gonna be climbing 10′s any day now).
5.8; 5.8; 5.9; 5.9; 5.9; 5.9
Had a really fun time in the water today. Felt like I spent enough time on the new board to finally start getting a feel for it. I was definitely getting up and down the face about as good as I ever have. The board seams to plain with the nose well out of the water and I was able to drop down some faces that I haven’t been able to before.
So far… It’s a pretty good year. Just had a pretty futile session: gale winds; mushy waist high waves; etc.. But it’s sunny, beautiful, I just rode my gorgeous new board, everyone around me is happy ( including my beach running puppy). I’m liking 2012…
Coastal Dynamics at Ocean Beach, SF from SPUR on Vimeo.
Sunset session at the favorite the other night. There were some very good longboarders out… Better than I’ve seen there in a long time. I struggled to get in most of the night, but am feeling solid in the board.
**
Got in the water at my favorite spot around 7:30pm and surfed till way after dark. Betsy got walloped by at least one shoulder high set.
**
Second session with Betsy… Cleaner south swell and Betsy paddled like a champ.
**
Surfed a little south swell at my favorite spot. After the session, the board blew off the fence it was leaning against and was dinged pretty bad… Probably the last session for my favorite board ever.
**
Took Betsy out for a session at my favorite spot.
**
Left the house at 5pm and had an easy 1 1/2 hour session at the buffet line last friday night. It was my day-9 on the mastercleanse, so I was feeling a definite loss of power and was a bit impatient, but caught a few little lefts and enjoyed a great evening in the water. The tide was coming in, there were just a handful of folks in the water and the sun was shining. There was a pretty strong sideshore wind coming from the west that was making it hard to drop down the face on the steep little lefties, but a few were made that made it all worth while and it was really, really good to be in the water as the sun set over one of the best places on the planet.
**
Surfed my favorite spot with chopper on saturday. It was a leashless lowtide session with some little waist high mackers on the inside. It was great to be back in the water for a second session in two days…
**
Surfed my favorite spot this morning… It was flat out fantastic to be in the water. There was an average size swell coming in very consistently. Average to small croud and I had more waves than I could’ve asked for.
Chopper showed up in the neighborhood this morning… We paddled over to the sand bar and caught a few. It was pretty crowded with short boards… A few of which, were rippin it up pretty well.
I’d say I only really had a handful of solid rides, but those were generally pretty awesome. And I did have one memorably charging drop into a racing long long wall… Someday I suspect I won’t freak out when I can’t see over the back of the wave… 
**
Fantastc session this morning… I had to drag my liver abusing self out of bed and over the hill this morning, but I’m so, so glad that I did. I surfed my favorite spot fo the first time in a long, long time and it was really fun.
There was zero traffic, head high drops and solid shoulder high rights for the taking. I paddled until I couldn’t paddle any more and it made for a gorgeous Friday.
**
Gerda and I bagged the local peak yesterday. We did our usual out and back…
Out: Edgewood; pipeline; Edgewood; hogback; railroad, fern creek; up to the lookout.
Back: Railroad; miller; railroad; hogback; Edgewood; pipeline; Edgewood.
It was a spectacular day… We were up out of the fog by the end the road and walked in the briliant sunshine for the rest of the day. There was an amazing low horizon fog hugging the ocean and bay for most of the day, which made the sunshine feel that much more brilliant.
+/- 8 miles, 2000 feet, 3 1/2 hours or so…
**
|
