thick in the head

…I’ll get started

Got a utility session in on Sunday morning. Went to chopper’s for a quick session before the game. It was grey and the winds were onshore, but I didn’t want the weekend to get by without a session, so… met chopper in the lot and paddled out into the muck for a session of uncomfortable denial.

I was trying out the twinzer for the first time in a year and a half or so. It didn’t help. We paddled out with a few duck dives and settled on the outside in the most warbly water I’ve been in in a very long time. Needless to say, After and hour and a half of paddling around waves that I didn’t recognize, I was denied. Strange though, I didn’t feel as demoralized as I probably should have. With the conditions so bad, I felt good just surviving…

1.9′ @ 11 seconds from 280.
medium-high outgoing tide.
1 1/2 hours in the water.

…shouldn’t be allowed.

…to find, up.

…does it matter?

Third day in camp.., second day of surfing. Sunday was slower to start as we lazed around the camp and packed up, before heading to the beach. Again, the morning was very still, with no wind whatsoever. The humpbacks continued to put on a show and one actually breached just out in front of the site. As we made our way back to the beach, the sun broke through and we were treated to more of the same beautiful weather and relentless waves.

The northwest swell was working again, maybe a couple feet smaller with mostly waist high mackers. I surfed the green hornet for a change and admittedly struggled but enjoyed every minute. I worked on positioning and the pop-up, Chopper had the single fin again and was hanging with the big boys on the peak while Megan stayed on the inside, and probably got more rides than Chopper and I combined. Again, I smiled non-stop and had an absolutely amazing day. Chopper and Kell got on the road early and Megan and I continued the tradition of ending the weekend with sun, beer and nuts.

small consistent NW swell.
mid outgoing tide.
2 hours in the water.

I had an amazing weekend… Megan, Chopper, Kel and I went south to the beachbreak spot. Megan and I spent thursday night and friday getting our bearings before Chopper and Kel showed up friday night. We woke up the next morning to super peaceful still air, three different whale pods hanging below the cliffs, black coffee, chorizo and eggs, good friends and amazing good energy to start the day. By late morning, we were at the beach in ridiculous sun, catching more waves than I could paddle into.

We were thinking there might be a bit of a south left in the water, but no such luck. So, we had to deal with a perfectly consistent chest high northwest swell until I couldn’t take any more. Megan paddled woody straight to the outside, chopper was dropping into everything he could find on the styley single fin and I took the pearson into drops that I haven’t made in quite a while. The conditions could not have been better. I have never had a day in this spot when the weather and waves were so good on the same day… nothing to do but smile.

small consistent NW swell.
mid outgoing tide.
3 1/2 hours in the water.

…from paradise

…gotta keep movin’

rock!

…I’m gonna need a driver

…time to hang in a parking lot!!!

I wanted to end the weekend knowing that i surfed as much as my body would let me, and I did it. After spending the day drinking bloody mary’s and hanging with chopper and kel, I busted out of town around 5pm heading for the sunset session. There’s a new south swell hitting tonight that should last through the week, so I figured I better welcome it to town. The scene couldn’t have been much better. There were 6 peeps in the water and most were familiar faces. The sky was overcast and a beautiful hue of soft blue.

The swell was definitely starting to hit, and the waves were mellow, fast and consistent. I road really fast rights from the point to the beach. Riding the nose on occasion, I had one of the best noserides that I can remember. I surfed until I was exhausted and giggling like a mad man… the end to a wonderful weekend.

1.8′ @ 17 seconds from 211.
high outgoing tide.
1 hour in the water.

I hung around in town for a few hours, hoping to get a second session in just before high tide. The weather couldn’t have been better. Sunny and beautiful with just a slight wind around mid-day. I had breakfast, read the paper, walked on the beach, read for a while… extremely chill.

The wind had picked up a bit, but not enough to have much impact at all. Mainly lefts in the afternoon, with a few nice rights to end the day. I surfed farther north than I ever have at this spot on some racy chest high lefts. I’m going to claim one memorable ride where I had a nice backside bottom turn, then a carve down the face, then into another nice bottom turn. It was a really fast sequence, and the best I’ve ever linked a couple together. I paddled until I couldn’t paddle any more. …a fantastic day.

+/- 2′ @ 15 seconds from +/-210.
high tide.
3 hours in the water.

I made it back to the beach this weekend… I drove to my favorite spot on saturday morning, knowing that I would be between two different south swells and hoping that I’d catch a bit of either. The beach was absolutely gorgeous. Sunny, warm and chill.

The waves were small and consistent, usually around waist high. There was no wind and it was ridiculous glassy… I rode a bunch of rights, maybe 10 good quality waves. Immediately comfortable and feeling great, but tired and kooky… I think I smiled all morning, nonstop.

+/- 2′ @ 15 seconds from +/-210.
medium incoming tide.
1 1/2 hours in the water.

but.., the possibilities are exciting

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I’m adding 5 surf posts under the category of ’sessions ‘08′, because I didn’t record them back in the spring. So here… #1

…any direction is better than staying put

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I’m adding 5 surf posts under the category of ’sessions ‘08′, because I didn’t record them back in the spring. So here… #2

…and the warmth feels good for a change

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I’m adding 5 surf posts under the category of ’sessions ‘08′, because I didn’t record them back in the spring. So here… #3

…appreciating the regularity of it all

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I’m adding 5 surf posts under the category of ’sessions ‘08′, because I didn’t record them back in the spring. So here… #4